ART AND ARCHITECTURE IN DOHA

The first hints of Qatar standing apart from any other nation, is when I’m greeted at the arrivals hall at Doha’s Hamad International Airport — a striking display of metallic oryx sculptures. Created by Dutch artist Tom Claassen, these pieces are part of a series of world-class artworks dispersed throughout the terminal. But it’s not until I witness the 23-foot-tall yellow teddy bear illuminated by a glowing lamp for a head — an uncanny creation by Swiss artist Urs Fischer — that I begin to question: is this a transportation hub or an art gallery? Soon I discover that the answer is both.

At the forefront of this artistic vision is Her Excellency Sheikha Al Mayassa bint Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani, chairperson of Qatar Museums and sister to the ruling emir. As one of the world’s most influential art collectors, her decisions shape the cultural landscape of this resource-rich nation. The royal family’s $6.8 million purchase of Fischer’s monumental teddy bear is just one example of their commitment to transforming Qatar into a global cultural beacon. Those bronze oryxes are merely an appetizer for the visual feast that awaits.

Since securing the bid to host the 2022 FIFA World Cup, Qatar has been on a building spree. Over a million visitors are expected to flood the capital in November, prompting a wave of new hotels, futuristic stadiums, and museum expansions. The city’s skyline, now rivaling those of Manhattan and Hong Kong, is punctuated by construction cranes symbolizing its rapid evolution.

Designed by Catalan architect Joan Sibina, the 3-2-1 Qatar Olympic and Sports Museum ranks among the largest sports museums globally and is the first Arab institution to join the Olympic Museums Network. Its galleries explore the history of sports, from Roman chariots to Jamaican bobsledders, and feature every Olympic torch since 1936. The Hall of Athletes, tell stories of icons like Babe Ruth and Tom Brady, alongside trailblazers such as Japanese Paralympic swimmer Mayumi Narita.

The National Museum of Qatar, conceived by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Jean Nouvel, also leaves an indelible impression on the onlooker. Its interlocking, petal-like discs are inspired by the desert rose, while its interior houses treasures like the Pearl Carpet of Baroda, adorned with over 1.5 million pearls and gemstones. A psychedelic installation by Swiss artist Pipilotti Rist captivates the visitors, solidifying their fascination with Qatar’s extraordinary museums.

Another standout is the Museum of Islamic Art, designed by the late I.M. Pei. Rising dramatically from the jade-green Arabian Gulf, this cubist masterpiece has been undergoing a transformation and is slated to reopen before the World Cup. A sneak-peak into the lobby and one is awestruck by its grandeur.

If exploring museums is not one’s interest, they can wander through Souq Waqif — a vibrant marketplace built on an ancient trading site. Among the maze of alleys, one can come across Oudh vendors with shelves of ornate perfume bottles, spice shops overflowing with pistachios and figs, and vendors serving Nutella crepes. Amid the bustling chaos, they can also withstand the grandeur of César Baldaccini’s golden sculpture of a severed thumb — a surreal yet fitting addition to the souq’s eclectic energy.

This juxtaposition of high culture and everyday life mirrors Doha’s broader contrasts. Locals don abayas and thobes yet accessorize with designer handbags and luxury cars. While gleaming skyscrapers rise above, migrant workers toil in harsh conditions, a stark reminder of the human cost behind the city’s meteoric rise.

But when in Qatar, one must not miss out on one of the most unforgettable experiences, that takes them beyond the city into Qatar’s desert. After a bumpy drive through gypsum plateaus, they will arrive at Richard Serra’s East-West/West-East, a quartet of towering steel plates stretching across a kilometer of sand. Alone at sunset, with the horizon glowing in hues of tangerine, they can find a sense of tranquility and connection. Away from Doha’s opulence, this stark yet powerful artwork leaves one grounded and deeply moved.